In this post I’ll try and keep a running list of materials used for the cabinet.

Tools

  • Jig Saw (get a set of new blades so they are good and sharp!)
  • Drill with a drill bit that has a built in countersink
    drillbit
  • Get a screw bit as well I have one of those quick change type that works well.
  • Table Saw
  • Liquid nail or wood glue
  • Sander
  • Nail gun (not necessary, but man it sure is nice!)
  • Hole cutting drill bit
    I first used the hole saw type like this:
    drillbit
    But it didn’t work very well, the teeth get gummed up with the MDF.
    And then it starts to burn and stink!
    Then I switched to this type:
    drillbit
    This one worked much better. It cut right through the MDF much easier.
  • Shop Vac (to pick up all the dust!
  • Router and a 1/16″ Slot Cutting bit

Building Materials

  • Box of 2″ Drywall course screws
  • 3 – Sheets 4′ x 8′ x 3/4″ MDF
  • 3 – 10′ 2x4s (probably only need 2 but they are only $3 each and I didn’t want to make another trip)
    I used several 2 foot pieces for support, probably overkill but oh well.
  • 3 – 8′ 1x2s (I already had several of these lying around) They are great for adding support under shelves etc.
  • 2 – swivelling/locking caster wheels
    (update: I’m not sure about these wheels, they might be too small.)
    (these go on the front of the base, about $1.99 ea)
    drillbit
    2 – non-swivelling caster wheels (on the back of the base, about $1.99 ea)
    drillbit
  • Drawer slides: I used these cheaper sets, they are about $7 from Lowes or Home Depot.
    They come in different lengths I used 18″
    drillbit
  • Gray primer paint
  • Black paint (not sure yet which type of finish to use I used a semi-gloss finish and it turned out nice.)
  • Cam Lock (see Day 6 for explanation, about $6 Home Depot)
    cabinetmagnet
  • Cabinet door magnetic catch I didn’t end up using this. (see Day 6 for explanation)
    cabinetmagnet
  • T-Molding – 20 feet (about $.47 a foot)
    molding
    I wasn’t going to do the T-Molding at first, but I’m glad I did. It really adds to the arcade feel .
  • 20″ fluorescent light (for the marquee, about $15 from Home Depot)
  • 2 – 36″ Aluminum L shaped brackets, see day 7 for details.
    (only needed 24″ but they didn’t come in that size, $2.99 ea)
  • 24″ x 18″ sheet of plexiglass see day 7 for details. (for the marquee, $7.00 from Home Depot)
  • 2 – Speaker grilles
    grille
    Purchased from Happ Controls $4.50 ea

Computer Equipment

  • TV – 25″ or 27″ depends on how big you want your cabinet. (I used a 25″ JVC and it was 3/4″ too wide. See day 10 for details.)
  • PC – For the old arcade roms you don’t need a beefy computer at all.
    You’ll need a s-video out capable video card if you plan on using a TV.
    Unless you want to use a VGA converter.
    If you want to do some of the new emulators for other consoles you’ll need a bit better computer.
  • Joystick Controller
    tank
    I’m using X-Arcade’s Dual Tankstick. ($199.00)
    You can build the controller with the joysticks and buttons yourself, but I didn’t want to.
    Maybe if I do this again I’ll go that route.
  • Speakers – I recommend getting a decent set of speakers with a subwoofer.
    When you hit the coin button on PacMan and it’s got some good bass and turned up it’s like I’m 12 or 13 again.
  • 2 – Push buttons for computer power switch and reset switch. $2.00 ea
    buttons
    I bought them from Happ Control. I actually bought about 6 of them in case I needed more for something else.

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